Tuesday, April 10, 2018
New Guidelines for Designing an Insulated Dog House
You will need to measure your dog upright. The ceiling should be no greater than a couple inches taller than your dog. If you own a puppy, then you should allow room for growth. The house length ought to be at least twice as long, & three fifths as wide in measurement to your puppy. If you plan on owning more dogs then youll have to make allowances for that as well.
Draw a floor plan. The square must be divided into 4 parts, for your dog house. Number each of the sections, from each point. Each of these intersections should have an upright post. The dog house will need to have an outer wall, as well as an interior wall. The entrance needs to be in section four, next to section 3. This interior wall will be the protection against the cold air. If you have seen an igloo, then you have the right idea. These walls will have 3 sections: theyll have 2 sides of plywood in addition to Styrofoam in between them.
Next youll have to build the floor frame. Make a square from the wood. Cut a shorter piece of wood to go through the middle. Nail the frame. Then you will have to cut 3/4 of a sheet of your external plywood for the overall floor.
Youll then have to measure the roof. The highest part must be at the front, and the shortest at the rear.
After that, you will need to cut out sections of plywood to fit into the box. Staple 1 to the inside of the outer wall of the dog house. Youll then have to nail the plywood on the inside and the outside. Dependant upon the insulation that you use, youll have to cut it accordingly to what the instructions say.
Cut your door out for your dog house. The base part of the entrance should be a minimum of five inches off the actual floor. You will need to nail molding to the door to stop it from coming apart. Make sure that there aren't any loose nails sticking through the door.
For the roof, you will need to cut one half of a a sheet of plywood. It must be larger than the overall house. It should not lay even, but more like a slope. This frame will be like a frame inside a frame. Once it has been built put aluminum drip edges around the entire roof, and staple 2 layers of plastic sheeting, and then make sure that you staple tar paper, shingels, and any other roof materials. Follow further directions that are provided to you on the materials that you purchased.
You will then have to paint your dog house-make sure that it is non toxic. Make certain that you place the house on a level surface, and according to the weather conditions you may need to move it.
Tuesday, March 20, 2018
Inspirational Home Garden Care in the Spring - Aphid Control Guidelines for the Home Gardener
Spring is the season when a host of pest organisms come to life and feed massively on our garden plants. Foremost amongst them are species of tiny flying insects, known commonly as aphids, which while not generally fatal, cause a lot of visual damage to a wide range of plants.
The initial symptom of aphid activity is the secretion of sugary substances on new leaves, stems, and flowers. This can be extremely unpleasant with honeydew dripping on to paths, parked cars, and other plants. More dangerous to the plants' health is the sooty mold, which is a complex of fungi that develops from the honeydew. Left unattended, the soot blocks out light from reaching the plants' foliage, thereby depriving the plant of its vital energy source.
Before going into how to deal with aphids, remember that the purpose of pest control is not the complete eradication of the offending organisms, but rather the control of their population levels to manageable proportions. The indiscriminate use of insecticides only succeeds in clearing the way for pest populations to explode, as the insecticides reduce the population of natural predators. For this reason, quite apart from environmental considerations, it is best to avoid applying pesticides in the home garden altogether.
As intelligent pest management is about control and not elimination, non-poisonous, "environmentally friendly" insecticides, such as insecticidal soaps, can do a satisfactory job. Better still is to use the good old-fashioned garden hose at high pressure to wash off the aphids, with a little help from your thumb and forefinger. Will this be 100% effective? The answer of course is negative, which as previously mentioned, is a good thing in itself.
As aphids in the spring tend to attack young juicy growth, they are mostly found on the plants' growing tips, making it easy to remove them by simply clipping the plants lightly. This works perfectly for foliage plants such as Artemisia or Ivy, but of course might prove very unsatisfactory for flowering ornamentals and fruit trees. It is also possible to let nature take its turn. In the Mediterranean region for instance, periodic hot, dry winds kill aphids just as effectively as insecticides.
With pests in general and aphids in particular, timing is all-important. Ultimately, we should be striving to turn the garden into a balanced eco-system, but this is easier said than done. In the meantime, aphids should be treated at the first signs of infection.
One sometimes sees a gardener spraying the honeydew or even the sooty mold that has grown on the plants' foliage and stems - a case of shutting the barn door after the horse has bolted. Aphids produce a number of generations within a single spring, so there is every chance that the gardener is spraying the symptoms and not the cause itself.